Bar La Grassa's tastebud overload
The demise of Babalu sent some local foodies into mourning, wondering where else they could get their fix of sensual lounge music, rum-glazed scallops, and Caribbean flair. To be honest, we don't know where they'll wander, but if they're smart, that loyalty can be shuttled right to Bar La Grassa, the funky and fresh eatery that swooped into the space.
In the kitchen: The place might look humble, but it has a hell of a powerhouse team behind the grill. Not only does it boast Isaac Becker, who's made the 112 Eatery into a reservations-required hotspot, but also has Josh Thoma, the force behind La Belle Vie, Solera, and Barrio. Part of the impetus behind opening La Grassa was creation of a more intimate connection between diner and chef, Becker has noted, and with the open floor plan, the chefs are awfully close.
The name: La Grassa means "the fat" in Italian. So, if you're on a diet or looking to skip rich pastas, plenty of butter, and smoked meats, it may be best to head elsewhere.
Eat this: Where to begin? The whole dining experience is geared toward taste bud overload, with Italian home-cooking favorites like gnocchi, cheese agnolotti, fusilli col buco, and tons of other dishes that may be hard to pronounce, but easy to order. For a particularly singular sensation, opt for a few varieties of bruschetta, like the white anchovy and avocado, or the soft eggs and lobster.
Drink up: Not surprisingly, there are plenty of Italian wine selections that pair well with the many pasta selections, but also nice are the many Californian and French options, including some very reasonably priced vinos.
Mom, date, or pal?: La Grassa's owners didn't just do a slight revamp, they gutted the place, so don't go looking for those dark, sultry vibes for a date night. Instead, it has some nice woodsy tones and lots of fresh energy, so it seems best for grabbing a bunch of chums who want to share the larger entrées.
Fellow gourmands: Since the restaurant is surrounded by lofts, the crowd skews toward the younger, hipper set, but not exclusively. Dress up a little—not because the place demands it, but because it just feels more fun that way.
Economic impact: Full entrées average about $20, but there are smaller portions available for all of the pastas, and the appetizers are very affordable. If you're on a date, pop for the shellfish platter—at $35, it's still a bargain.
Vital stats: 800 Washington Ave. N, , 612-333-3837, barlagrassa.com. Sunday to Thursday open 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday to Saturday, the bar is open until 2 a.m. On-street parking can get crowded on weekends, but never seems unmanageable.
